#1 Wine Tasting in a Wine Region
Quest Origins
By the time I’m 40, I’ll have been drinking alcohol on a semi regular (up to “frequent” at times) for in the region of 25 years. This is probably not the time for a reflective account on all the drinks I’ve drunk in that time (will save that for the opening of a later quest) save to say this; I’ve drunk a lot of booze.
One day in 2007ish at some after work drinks in the Charles Napier in Brentwood, I distinctly recall seeing several triple JDs appear unexpectedly in the bathroom. I didn’t touch whisky for years but then social necessity made it appealing, and it’s returned to my drinking arsenal, having tasted sampled, and shared a wide range of styles and types. Similarly, whilst from the age of 16ish I fell in with a crowd who felt real ale was highbrow, reality meant my common drink was actually Fosters (or Fosters and lime if I was in the pub). I’d been through a journey (covered in a later quest) had been through a snooty phase and settled into just enjoying the drink.
Comparatively, there had been no such storied journey of wine for me. In earlier years it was something drunk at various social events where it was expected, like weddings or for toasts. Some was nice, some was not, it was all alcoholic and often, free. Into my thirties, this progressed, some would say through maturity or something but in reality it’s probably the natural product of more civilised dining, greater means, and different company. Wine was certainly on the menu, and I had a good understanding of it through my beer adventures, but it still occupied a substantial gap, an experience I felt worthy of seeking out by my 40th and so it added to the 40×40 adventure.
The setting
Whilst this quest was intended to be completed in Bordeaux or Tuscany, or further afield in Napa USA or Marlborough NZ, I’m really pleased that fate had us rock up to the Bodegas Enquera vineyard in the Valencia region of southern Spain.
A family-run brewery spanning three generations, we were warmly met by Joaquín by the bar while we were waiting for the previous group to finish. The setting was so quiet and peaceful, we had a little look around outside taking in the classic Mediterranean scenery landscape with figs, chestnuts, olives – and of course – vines to the horizon.
Soon after, we met with Pedro who immediately set the tone of the visit, explaining that only a small proportion of the vineyard was in that location, some more on the sierra ahead, and more in a nearby valley referred to as “the Tuscany of Valencia”. As he rightly observed, they don’t call Tuscany the “[this valley name] of Italy” a remarkable feat of marketing that characterised wine production in Spain, an absolutely massive producer and exporter of wine, though overshadowed by other European cousins in the reputation stakes.
Pedro’s knowledge and passion persisted across the rest of the tour as he openly described his approach being one of science and progress rather than the traditional romantic approach to wine production. This wasn’t without its imagery though, as Pedro described the changing landscape and homes in the modern age, and the inadvertent problems caused. Before going inside we were shown the bat homes installed throughout the facility to encourage colonies of bats, combating the many pests which are natural enemies to grape, vine, and wine – a key natural synergy to the vineyard’s operation.
Inside the main building, this synergy was laid out in great detail. From its renewable energy source, to using waste for biomass, from natural fining agents to resale of wine lees, Pedro described the production of wine here as being like the way they use pork; every bit of the animal being put to good use.
After a tour of the cellar, with the cooperage, barrelling and even the audit processes described as an analogous kitchen, it was time to taste the product we’d been hearing so much about. We tried three – white, red, and ice – guided through the tasting process with the sage advice of forgetting all the obscure tasting notes which should be dismissed as being “French” behaviour.
The view was one which I subscribe to; that the process of tasting and forming an opinion is greatly stifled by over-obsession with trying to consider whether the drink is jammy, or has acacia tones, or depth or mouthfeel or astringency, instead of considering whether the present taste, situation and accompaniment is like or not.
We bought some bottles for the following day, along with some pots of a sort of pickled oil paprika tomato concoction but because we’re hand luggage only could not bring any home so they will need to be drunk in Valencia. We’ll order some more as souvenir for 40×40 posterity when home.
Whilst fairly conversant in beer and whisky processes and taste, wine had always been a bit more mysterious, an unaccomplished gap in my alcohol knowledge. Now, this gap is filled, and the first of my 40×40 challenges complete.
40x40 
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